Tony's TR6 Restoration Site

          Situated in Perth, Western Australia

Engine details:

6 Cyl 2500cc

Stage 2 Head

Electronic Fuel Injection

Compression 10.5 :1

Cam bearings

Flywheel lightened

Engine Balanced

J Type overdrive

EIDIS ignition system

Electric fan

Heritage Certificate

Technical Certificate

Today (23/10/08), I am fitting the brake pipes to the chassis. I purchased a complete set of copper pipes with fittings from Moss, but have been told I can not use them in Australia???. It seems that copper pipes can fracture easily if allowed to vibrate. I think 'they' forget that the pipes are clipped to the chassis and secured. I have now purchased steel brake pipes, bender and flaring tools and will use the fittings from the copper kit.

28/10/08      Didn't get to fix the brakes pipes yet as I decided to install the suspension and and brakes first. I thought it would be useful to have points to run the pipes too. I chose Wilwood 4 pot calipers with vented and drilled discs as they appear to have a good reputation over here. The ones I received had no installation instructions, just a warning that basically means the installation is my own responsibility...still, instructions would have been nice, especially torque settings for the bolts.

     Front upper and lower wishbones fitted.          The brakes during assembly.

1/11/08     On to the suspension. Springs were fitted using a home made spring compressor (a tip from the TR forums).

The hubs, linkage and calipers were then assembled....I used new nuts and bolts everywhere. I also fitted the rear shock kits which went on very nicely.

I had a few challenges with the new Wilwood brake calipers and the Wolfrace wheels. They just weren't compatible without using spacers and this is something I wanted to avoid. After several phone calls, I found a wheel that not only fitted correctly with the right offset, but also looked good.

These are the Superlite wheel..15 x 195 x 50

  I chose the 8 spoke version as opposed to the 12 spoke.

  I have now started fitting the brake pipes and fuel pipes. As soon as I have my Diff and drive shafts back, I can put the chassis on the floor and fit the engine and gearbox and I must admit to looking forward to that milestone...

15/12/08           After having an in-depth conversation with my friend Bruce, (Bruce Pollock is the secretary of the Triumph sports owners cub of WA), I decided to fit disc brakes on the rear of my TR6. I have been told that the drum brakes are more than adequate but hey...in for a penny. Bruce very kindly made the fittings I required as he had made them for others too. The calipers and discs are off a Nissan Sylvia S13 and they incorporate a handbrake.  The stud pattern of the discs are exactly the same as the Triumph. These were purchased from a breakers and overhauled completely, below is a picture of the components.

here I was trial fitting the parts...

The standard bore on the brake master cylinder is 0.75" so I may need to go to a larger size (1") to accommodate the rear calipers.

A Nissan Skyline unit will fit nicely,

A couple of mods need doing on the discs...The centre hole needs machining out slightly and the stud holes on the inside of the disc need a bit more countersinking to allow the disc to fit flat against the hub flange. This caused me all sorts of problems until I realised what needed to be done.

(At one stage, I thought my hub flange face was distorted).

The handbrake cable is connected to lever (next to the spring) shown in this picture...

(The large bolt sticking up is only there to block the fluid inlet hole).

                   Here are the new drive-shafts which I have had made up. The shafts are from a Datsun 240Z and are of the ball bearing type.

These were grafted on to the TR spiders joints. Donor shafts are readily available and cheap ($75 AUD each).

May 6th 2009......I welded two brackets to the rear of the bridge to connect the brake lines.

They are out of harms way here. The brackets for the handbrake cables were then fitted and the cables connected.

It is interesting to note that once the slack is taken up on the adjusters, they don't need to be adjusted again (unless the cables stretch). This is because the calliper piston is adjustable to take up wear. It is rotated clockwise to decrease pad/disc distance and anti-clockwise to increase it...very simple.

  I also decided to drill an access hole to enable me to grease the universal joints without having to take them out each time.

May 4th 2010....I fitted the pedal frame in but was not happy with the throttle pedal, the one that bends around corners. I made a modified version up that is more rigid and doesn't have to cross the other pedals.